What Can I Clean My Gun With

Thread Condition:: Not open for further replies.

For the longest time, I used patroleum based hand cleaners to clean my guns -- cheap & very clean. But, now that these cleaners are no longer bachelor, I've been looking for an alternative.
Anyone out there use a non-conventional -- inexpensive -- effective cleaner?
TIA
Ivory Bar Soap.
Blackpowder folks have been doing this forever.
Information technology works on Smokeless guns as well.
Goose egg Lighter fluid, non just to clean, also for flushing out triggers, and bolts and this is all some rifles mfg one use to lube these areas.
I employ wd-forty. Information technology's a household cleaner in my abode.
I used Easy-Off on the diameter of a 102 howitzer when I was in the Army worked like a amuse
Almost of the kitchen liquid cleaners and de-greasers will serve to clean a lot of grime off, but BE Careful, some of them, like Merely Green attack aluminum.
There are few household cleaners that volition remove carbon or copper fouling without damaging the gun or it'due south stop.

I recommend something like Greased Lightning for general cleaning, but you'll still need a diameter solvent to remove carbon fouling from the action, and for removing carbon and copper fouling from the bore.

E'er TEST FIRST.
Some chemicals and other products can damage woods finishes, bluing, plastics, and aluminum.
Window cleaner works well for cleaning bores and chambers of black powder guns.
For a complete detail strip, lilliputian is cheaper or faster than brake cleaner from the auto parts store. Article of clothing gloves when using it. It'south under pressure, has a nozzle for crannies and nooks. Information technology is not constructive every bit a diameter/lead cleaner, though. Afterwards, lube your working surfaces, and wipe down your other surfaces with your oil or wax of choice. I do this with all "new" (used) guns I buy and they piece of work much amend afterwards, unfailingly. Afterwards, not "over-oiling" is key to keeping actions make clean and clay/residue free.
PS - for other short cuts, Steve Martin offers these tips and demonstrations on gun cleaning:
http://www.youtube.com/scout?v=TEoP8q5-3Jc
I'd accept to go with those who said WD 40 and lighter fluid.
The lighter fluid is simply naptha, or what was known for years as dry cleaning fluid. It's what gets the grease out of mechanics uniforms that are provided by the uniform company. It'due south also great around the house to get out small-scale stains on dry make clean only upholstery, like burrow cushions, defunction, and such. I worked for a shop in Charleston that had a policy, if yous got grease on a seat or rug, and it had to exist cleaned, you paid for it out of your own pocket. All of the mechanics kept a tin can of lighter fluid in their tool box for that reason.

Another squeamish thing about WD 40 besides information technology cleaning and lubricating in one footstep is that it is not-conductive. You tin can employ it on electric wiring and such. A car alarm rep once showed me that trick. Yous know how the keyless entry remotes get corrosion on the battery terminals? Just utilise WD forty and a toothbrush and the stuff comes correct off, and the residue won't curt out the unit of measurement. Works on flashlights too.

Of grade, if someone throws a total can of WD 40 into a burn down, say one that is called-for in a l-v gallon drum, like when you're a security guard on a cold night and y'all're also bored, action will definitely pick up. Especially if your boss, who is a Vietnam Vet with PTSD, pulls up and gets out of his car just as the tin of WD forty explodes.

The fireball must accept gone at to the lowest degree twoscore feet in the air, and I never would have believed that a 270lb man would fit underneath a Plymouth Reliant K-auto.
Window cleaner is the choice for me, but well-nigh of what I shoot if non all lately, is corrosive ammo.
I utilise 409 and Dawn on the plastic of my XD.
I utilise the 409 for general cleaning and the Dawn mixed with some hot h2o to take off whatsoever CLP that has found information technology'southward manner onto the plastic.
Windex or other ammonia solution is good for neutralizing corrosive ammo, although plain hot water will work too. Orange oil (ie, Goo Gone) is good every bit a mild degreaser. I use dish lather to clean my pistol suppressors.
Hot Soapy H2o + WD-forty
My personal preference:Hot water (around 180 degrees) with Dawn dishwashing liguid. Diverse soft bristle brushes including toothbrushes. Scrub disassembled gun parts and so rinse thoroughly with clear HOT water. Air dry for a few seconds then apply WD-forty (sparingly) while parts are withal hot. Blow off any backlog WD-40 with compressed air (apply light lubrication with gun oil if desired but not really necessary) reassemble. I wipe down barrels and external surfaces using a cloth sprayed with WD-forty. Exercise not allow whatever excess WD-40 or annihilation else to penetrate unprotected wood.
Scout your WS-40, information technology tin can leave a residual and mess with a stock's terminate....Gumout carb and choke cleaner works well, just don't forget to relube after....industrial ammonia volition get the copper out of your barrel...there are non=petroleum gun products that piece of work well too...
oneounceload,this hasn't been my experience after using WD-40 on my guns for almost 40 years. I take never experienced ANY gumming period and never had a terminate harmed. WD-40 WILL penetrate unprotected wood ie; flaws or open spots in a stocks finish. Also around cut checkering where finish will be thin. At that place certainly are products that will do a better job merely WD-40 will practice no harm (at least to metal and plastic parts).
Unreal. And scientist and manufacturering companies have spent Billions of dollars in research and development of products for the expressed purpose of cleaning and preserving firearms and you are looking for a "house concord cleaner"??
+1
This is just laughable, if information technology wasn't so deplorable!
Household detergents, simple-dark-green, drinking glass cleaners, etc. volition do such an splendid task, they will almost likely remove all the oil from places you can't get too to put information technology back.
That includes cracks, crevasses, and the pores of the metal.
And many of them are caustic, or acidic, to the point of causing harm to some materials.

Bad thought all the way effectually!

rcmodel
Bushmaster, I was thinking the same thing!
I used mobile 1 synthetic 10W30 on my xd for the starting time time the other day.... information technology worked pretty well on cleaning up carbon deposits using a flannel rag. its better than break free CLP IMO(cheaper also).
All that money for R&D (which is passed on to us, the consumers) and they all the same can't beat soap and water.
dicky r Fellow member

Joined:

Sep five, 2006

Messages:

26
yeah, and I once knew a guy that said the all-time matter to stain and re-oil my cedar and log home was motor oil. go effigy.
markmc753 Member In Memoriam

Joined:

Jul three, 2006

Letters:

158
My cleaning lady does an ok job I guess... Let me know if y'all would like a reference to her
does she mop the floor first or swab the bore?